bonjour a tous encore moi avec mes questions
quelqu un serait il quel ai la resistance au borne du capteur de temperature air du turbo vise au dessus du papillons d accelerateur?
les broche on etait ressoude a l etaint comme un porc jme demande si le capteur fonctionne encore vu que l ur na pas trop de peche.
merci les gars
The following is valid up to 85-B-901140. From 85-B-901141 onwards the connections on the inlet air temperature sender are soldered. Up to 85-B-901344 the connector was retained, but moved to the wheel housing. Later vehicles have no connectors, but the tests are the same.
Peel back the boot over the inlet air temperature sender's connectors and check the connections.
With the ignition off, check the resistance between the sender's connectors for between 13 and 33 ohms. Deviation from around 21 ohms is uncommon.
Detach ECU connector.
Check resistance between ECU connector pins 18 and 19 for 13 to 33 ohms. If bad, proceed:
Disconnect connector from inlet air temperature sender on top of inlet manifold. With clip uppermost, check for continuity between the left contact and ECU connector pin 18. If bad, repair loom.
Check continuity between right contact and ECU connector pin 19. If bad, repair loom.
If all wiring tests passed, replace inlet air temperature sender.
The connections to the sensor itself are soldered and are notoriously unreliable. It is worth replacing the soldered connections with crimped ones:
Desolder the wires.
Remove the air temperature sender from the inlet manifold.
With GOOD non-bevelled side cutters, lift the spot-welded contacts away from the sensor's tangs.
Clean up the tangs with a flat jeweller's file.
Crimp 3mm female spade connectors (used for loudspeaker connections - see car audio dealers) onto the wires.
Replace - noting that excessive torque easily damages the sensor.
jme demande si le capteur fonctionne encore vu que l ur na pas trop de peche.
